BACKYARD

We adore Turkeys...BUT...Are you ready for turkeys?

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Turkeys include heritage turkey breeds, the Broad Breasted varieties, and the wild species. Heritage breeds are popular, but if you want a turkey much like those you buy in the grocery store, you should raise one of the Broad Breasted types.

 

Heritage breeds are capable of reproducing, so they are the ones you want to have if you wish to manage a flock. Broad Breasteds cannot reproduce naturally, so you will need to order new chicks, rather than depending on the hens to lay and incubate eggs.

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The average lifespan for a commercial-breed turkey is two to six years. Male turkeys (“toms”) tend to have a shorter lifespan than female turkeys (“hens”), typically living only two to five years. Commercial turkeys, Broad-breasted Whites, are bred to be abnormally large and are free-fed a very high-fat diet, often with antibiotics to promote growth. These factors, along with raising turkeys in intensive confinement systems, can result in health problems and early death. Many turkeys from industrial farms are also debeaked and de-toed, leading to other health issues.

 

Commercial-breed females, even on very restricted diets, can weigh between 20 and 35 pounds when fully grown, and commercial toms can weigh between 35 and 50 pounds. Turkeys’ normal body temperature is 106.7 °F, but it can go as high as 107.5 °F, with young turkeys registering between 102 °F and 106 °F.

 

Other breeds of domesticated turkeys, including Heritage breeds such as Spanish Blacks, Midget Whites, Lilac, Bourbon, and some Bronze breeds, can be much smaller. These birds weigh far less and have average life spans of 10 to 12 years. There are broadbreasted bronze turkeys, as well, who grow to the same size as the broad-breasted whites, who make up more than 98% of all birds used in production.

 

Nutritional Needs of Turkeys

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Water: Clean, fresh water must be available at all times. The use of a poultry fountain or automatic watering unit is recommended to prevent spillage and to keep water as clean as possible. In warmer weather, check water often throughout the day. During periods of freezing temperatures, the use of a water heater is recommended.

 

Feed: Turkey feed can be purchased at most farm supply stores. Pre-mixed turkey feed generally contains antibiotics and animal by-products, and commercial turkey feed is designed to promote fast growth, which is very harmful to an animal already predisposed to be abnormally large. You can have your own feed made, but most feed mills will only create feed in quantities over a ton. If you have to use a commercial feed, do so in restricted quantities, feeding only about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of feed per bird, twice daily. You can use a layer pellet, but this is not ideal. There, sadly, is not a feed made for industrial turkeys that is not also designed to make them grow far too large. Organic feeds are more difficult to find, but they may be the best bet. Although they cost more in the end, it still is not a huge expense. Feeding one turkey, even with a more expensive feed, costs about $250 per year.

 

Commercial-breed turkeys, however, will overeat when given free access to food, causing not only excessively fast growth and obesity but also other health problems, including distended crops, crop stasis, and hepatic lipidosis.

 

Greens are also an important part of a turkey’s diet. When greenery is sparse or limited in the turkeys’ outdoor habitat, romaine lettuce can be provided to them as a supplement. When they are being supplemented, the pelleted food can be reduced only slightly (use 3/4 cup rather than 1 cup) to keep the weight off. Weighing turkeys once a month will ensure they are not growing too large.

 

Feeders: Turkeys, particularly ones who have been debeaked, may have trouble eating food off the ground or eating smaller grains. Additionally, eating off the ground increases the risk of parasite infestations. Choose a feed container that is heavy enough to prevent tipping and small enough to prevent birds from walking or standing in their feed as this can lead to contamination by feces. Special poultry feeders are available through farm and feed supply stores and catalogs.

 

Handling Turkeys: Due to the excessive weight turkeys reach when grown, their legs can be damaged easily. Therefore, turkeys should never be grabbed or picked up by their legs (a common industry practice). To pick up a turkey, stand behind the turkey, fold your arms and upper body over her wings and back, hug firmly, and lift. If you “lose” a wing, put the bird down immediately and start over. Handle firmly but gently to avoid injuring the turkey or yourself. If your turkey is struggling or seems to be highly stressed, set her down for a moment and start again. Covering the bird’s head and eyes with your free hand may calm her. If you have never handled an adult turkey, do not attempt to do so alone and have someone with training demonstrate this for you. The turkey can panic and easily injure herself or the handler.

 

Shelter Requirements for Turkeys Building: A garage or shed makes a fine turkey home. A good size is 10 feet by 20 feet because this is high enough for you to walk comfortably inside. The shelter must be waterproof, predator-proof, and well ventilated. A wooden floor is best for cleaning purposes, but, because turkeys can easily slip on wood, we recommend covering wood floors with rubber mats or some other slip-resistant material. Because turkeys are prone to leg and joint issues, plenty of clean, dry straw or wood shavings should always be provided for bedding. Short fiber straw is also better so that they do not get tangled in the bedding. Wet and soiled bedding should be removed daily. Cleaning the entire building (i.e., scrubbing floors, walls, etc.) once a week is recommended. The very best flooring for a turkey is dirt, but many predators dig under barns to get inside, so if you are using a dirt floor, make sure that predators, including rats, cannot dig under and get to your turkeys.

 

For protection from predators, turkeys must be kept safely in their shelter at night. Rats must be kept out of the shelter because large and de-toed commercial turkeys cannot perch and are therefore vulnerable to them.

 

If you have non-commercial turkeys or young commercial turkeys still able to perch, the shelter should be equipped with a roost. For those who cannot roost, an unopened straw bale makes a good alternative sleeping station. Each female turkey must also be provided with a nesting box, which easily can be made out of straw bales or constructed of wood. Make sure whatever material you use is stable and can safely hold their weight and that there are no gaps where they can get a foot stuck.

 

Fencing: Fencing is necessary to keep predators out and turkeys in. A 4- to 5-foot-high fence is adequate for turkeys of commercial breeds, most of whom are too heavy to fly. If you have noncommercial breeds, however, you may need to trim their wings or erect a fence higher than 6 feet. Wing trimming is painless because only feathers are being cut, but it needs to be done correctly, so it is best to be trained by your vet or someone with experience. Heritage breed turkeys can fly to the tops of trees or even three-story homes, so it will probably be necessary to trim their wings to keep them safe.

 

If you are planning to construct a fence, shop around for the best buy because prices and styles of fencing vary greatly. Turkey fencing can be purchased from your local farm supply or lumber store or through a farm supply catalog (see resource list). Do not use chicken wire alone as fencing. It is too flimsy, and predators can easily break through it. We recommend woven wire “no climb” fence stretched tightly and reaching to the ground. For areas with foxes or other digging predators, we recommend using a fence that is taller than needed to contain the birds so that the excess inches can be bent and buried to prevent digging; alternately, you can dig a trench and sink the fence.

 

Health Care for Turkeys Maintenance: For turkeys, as for all animals, sanitary housing, clean pasture, nutritious food, and plenty of sunshine will greatly reduce health problems. Living in small flocks also reduces turkeys’ vulnerability to health problems (living in large flocks, on the other hand, tends to lower the birds’ disease tolerance and allows the spread of disease).

 

Like dogs or cats, turkeys need to have their toenails clipped (unless they are de-toed), especially if they are not very mobile. Trimming turkeys’ nails is very similar to trimming dogs’ or cats’ nails; your veterinarian can show you this procedure.

 

During your daily contact with your birds, always be on the lookout for any physical or behavioral changes. In particular, watch for diarrhea, listlessness, pale coloring, loss of appetite, limping or other gait changes, swollen sinuses (just below the eyes), bubbly eyes or discharge, sneezing, or coughing. If you notice any of these symptoms, consult your veterinarian. It can be difficult to find a veterinarian who is willing to treat turkeys, but they do exist. Your best bet is to find someone who works with “exotic” birds and other non-traditional companion animals.

 

 Turkey Behavior Issues: Turkeys are flock animals and thrive best in groups. Turkeys are also territorial, however, so you must keep this in mind when you introduce birds to each other. Male turkeys, or Toms, can be very aggressive with each other and should be introduced only when mating season is over — in the fall or, preferably, in winter, to be safe. They may still fight, so you will need to be present to break up fights and ensure that no bird is severely injured, although they usually work out dominance quickly. Do not introduce birds in hot weather because this is likely to exacerbate problems.

 

Female turkeys also fight, so, again, be available to stay with the birds when they are first introduced. Turkeys may also be aggressive with new chickens or other bird residents who are being introduced, so always be vigilant.

 

If your males cannot live together without fighting, we have found that they do well with large-breed roosters and can be good companions for them. Turkeys would, of course, prefer to be with other turkeys when possible.

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